Lorie’s father, Marcel, founded IGI in 1975. Roland became CEO of the grading lab following his father’s passing in 2006; all told, he’s worked there for 48 years.

Tehmasp Printer, who most recently served as managing director of IGI India, will take Lorie’s place as head of IGI. Printer has worked for the lab for 24 years.

Deborah Pienica will continue as chief operating officer, and Roland’s son Arnaud serves as its chief marketing officer.

Blackstone Group recently bought IGI for $569.65 million. Fosun Group and Lorie’s family owned the lab from 2018 until this year.

(Photos courtesy of IGI)

Pickleball—described as a cross between ping-pong, badminton, and tennis—was invented nearly 60 years ago but has recently exploded in popularity across age groups throughout the United States. An estimated 36.5 million people in the U.S. played pickleball in 2022, according to the Association of Pickleball Players, and pickleball participation has soared an average of 158.6% over the past three years, said the Sport & Fitness Industry Association, which issues an annual report on pickleball statistics.

So perhaps people might wear a pickleball bracelet right next to their tennis bracelet? That’s what Mary Weber-Rupert, founder and jewelry designer at Five Star Jewelry Brokers in Austin, Texas, says. Weber-Rupert started playing pickleball during the pandemic and now plays three to four times a week.

“I had heard about Chris Evert coining the term tennis bracelet during a U.S. Open in 1978 when her diamond bracelet broke while she was playing and was lost on the court. When asked, she told the press she was looking for her tennis bracelet. Tennis bracelets became so popular. As the sport of pickleball started becoming more and more popular, I thought about how people would enjoy wearing pickleball jewelry while playing,” Weber-Rupert says.

“A paddle seemed like the perfect choice to me. However, I felt like the pickleball ball looked more like a soccer ball, so we spiced things up and added diamonds, citrines, and pearls instead. I wanted it to be a design that was easy to see, but not too big to wear on the court,” Weber-Rupert says.

Irina Rachow, owner of Everwild Designs in Encinitas, Calif., developed the PickleBelle collection to celebrate her love for the game and offer jewelry that allows others to do so in style. She says the collection is selling well and she loves adding new designs, everything from bracelets to earrings to cufflinks.

“I got into pickleball in 2020 when I was introduced to it by a close friend who had just started playing during lockdown and knew I would love it. It was a way to feel connected with friends in an outdoor setting when we had plenty of time on our hands, and as the learning curve was so short, I was able to get the hang of it in under five minutes,” Rachow says.

“I am a designer at heart, and like many people I am intrigued by miniature things—perfect replicas of everyday objects. As pickleball is so popular, it was a completely natural jump to create pretty jewelry that embodied the tools of the sport—perfect pickleball paddles and balls,” Rachow says. “Being a sport, I incorporated movement, like a pickleball swinging in front of a jeweled paddle or a paddle with an impact starburst ‘chasing’ the pickleball up the necklace chain.”

With pickleball fans rallying for the sport to join the Olympics, Rachow expects interest will continue to rise. She hopes people who began playing during the pandemic will help make pickleball jewelry more than a trend.

“It used to be dominated by the older folks, but a recent survey shows that the No. 1 growing age group in pickleball is 18- to 25-year-olds,” Rachow says.

Top: Five Star Jewelry Brokers in Austin, Texas, is one of the jewelers selling pickleball-inspired fine jewelry as on-trend accessories for the popular game. (Photo courtesy of Five Star) 

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Retailers are closer than most consumers to the cheeriest time of year, already working on their stock, their advertising, and their special events. Pinterest has released its advice on marketing for the holiday season, just in time to get busy planning.

This guide is geared specifically toward persuading marketers to spend dollars on Pinterest, so the content as it relates to how businesses should be using the platform is a little dry (for current top trends on Pinterest, check here). But the data shared by Pinterest does paint a convincing picture as to why businesses should reserve some of their marketing budget for it, particularly where online shopping is concerned.

According to Pinterest, the platform’s users spend more money during the holiday season than users of other platforms; three in four holiday shoppers reportedly discover new brands and products during the holiday season; and more than half of the holiday shoppers on Pinterest say the platform influences their purchases.

With a seemingly eager audience, Pinterest suggests businesses consider a full-funnel campaign strategy for best results—with ads at the awareness, consideration, and conversion stages. The company reports that conversion rate for viewers to buyers is three times higher among brands that run full-funnel campaigns, compared with those that advertise at only one stage. Suggestions for how ads might look are in the guide. Pinterest also includes a case study from Michaels.

Read the full report on Pinterest’s blog.

(Image via Pinterest)

VicenzaOro will once again host the contemporary watch lounge VO’Clock Privé in September, announced the Italian Exhibition Group, organizers of the jewelry show held twice a year at the Vicenza Expo Centre in Italy.

Dedicated entirely to watchmaking culture, VO’Clock Privé will be located in the first-floor foyer of the Expo Centre and open to the general public—watch enthusiasts, experts, and collectors of timepieces—from Sept. 8 to 10 (the VicenzaOro show runs Sept. 8–12).

At VO’Clock Privé, visitors are invited to handle the products, interact with watch manufacturers, and peruse displays of top brands and independent watchmakers. This is the second edition of VO’Clock Privé, returning after its successful debut last year with new sharing and learning opportunities, including appearances by watch professionals such as Ander Ugarte, head of design at Tudor, and watchmaking personalities Beppe Ambrosini and Bruno Bergamaschi.

Educational events at VO’Clock Privé will include courses hosted by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) in Geneva and a seminar on “Italian Watchmaking and its Future,” conducted by Ugo Pancani, trainer at FHH, with special guests Sandro Fratini, Auro Montanari, and Marco Mantovani.

There will also be a Zenith Watch Clinic, and the prestigious Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) will present eight master watchmakers: Andersen Genève, Kudoke, Ludovic Ballouard, Meccaniche Orologi Milano, Matthias Naeschke, Sinclair Harding, Vincent Calabrese, and Marc&Darnò.

For more information, visit vicenzaoro.com/en/vo-clock.

(Photo courtesy of VicenzaOro)

Thankfully, there are plenty of incredible coral pieces out there—from a statement-making strand of branches to earrings that incorporate just a couple of vintage polished beads on gold shells. Below, we’ve rounded up a few of our favorite coral jewels on the market right now.

Handcrafted on Nantucket, this necklace from By Fede displays coral branches handpicked in Italy. The result is a unique piece that radiates the allure of two distinctive places connected by one vast ocean.

Bursting with coral beads, Van Cleef & Arpels’ domed ring also includes rows of cultured pearls, making it the perfect statement piece for any seaside summer soiree.

Organic meets opulent through the combination of 47 coral beads and cabochon corals and 324 brilliant-cut diamonds set in 18k gold and platinum on David Webb’s bracelet.

Feminine and flirty, Renato Cipullo’s Coral Shell (Corallo Conchiglia in Italian) earrings combine two elements of the sea. They’ll make you feel like you’re in both a different time and a different place.

A one-of-a-kind piece featuring a textured gold shell and South Sea pearl, Haute Victoire’s necklace uses a Sardinian coral branch to unite the elements. It’s a celebration of the Mediterranean at its finest.

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Sunia Mafileo Faavesi, Ryan Kentrell Montgomery, Paul Christopher Tonga, John Ioane Tupou, and Kyle Vehikite have all been charged with conspiracy to commit robbery affecting interstate commerce for their alleged roles in the March 17 robbery of Heller Jewelers in San Ramon, Calif., said a statement from the U.S. attorney for California’s Northern District.

All the defendants were arrested last week except Tupou, who remains at large.

The suspects got away with $1.1 million in jewels, including several Rolex watches, in one minute. The robbery took place at a busy mall in the middle of the afternoon and resulted in multiple bystanders fleeing the scene.

The GPS tracker was “embedded in the cushion of the packaging” of one of the Rolexes, said the affidavit, signed by a special agent of the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms (ATF).

“Immediately following the theft, the tracking device began recording GPS locations and disseminating that information to officers and dispatchers. For the hours that followed, the device sent near real-time GPS location data of its current location.”

Officers of the San Ramon Police Department followed the tracker in multiple vehicles as the watch was taken through different counties before its battery died, the affidavit said.

The investigators also used witness accounts, surveillance footage, and automated license plate reader technology to track the suspects, according to the ATF agent.

The robbers were helped by a supposed “law enforcement insider”—who reportedly worked as a clerk in the local police department and gave information to a suspect via text. Authorities are said to be investigating her.

Among the things that intrigued investigators: a visit to a nearby casino. “Based on my training and experience, I know individuals often use casinos to clean illicit proceeds,” said the affidavit. “This is done by exchanging illicit proceeds through the casino’s cage for playing chips. After playing a few games (gambling), the individuals will cash out the chips, having now obtained new currency provided by the casino.”

The government has asked for the defendants to be detained prior to their trial. Their lawyers could not be reached for comment.

Top: The robbery at Heller Jewelers (photo from U.S. government legal papers)

The New York–based association announced winners in its 33rd annual jewelry design competition on Aug. 2. The awards recognize JA members for creativity, artistry, style, and excellence—or CASE.

JA received more than 150 entries in eight categories, which are separated for retailers and suppliers and by dollar value of the jewelry. In addition to the eight winners, one retail and one supplier entry were named Best in Show.

“Jewelers of America’s CASE Awards design competition highlights the fine craftsmanship, creativity, and talent of Jewelers of America member designers and bench jewelers,” Gizzi said in a statement.

Sardwell, who won in the supplier $10,001–$50,000 category, says she believes jewelry is not merely something people casually wear—it can change them.

“It’s more than just the object, which I feel must be of immense quality and craftsmanship. It’s also that the objects hold this essence—this preciousness, this spirit—that transcends into something else,” Sardwell says. “Not only does the object hold that power, but as you put it on, the wearer transforms as well.”

CASE winners were selected by a panel of design experts who evaluated entries on the following criteria: overall design, marketability, originality, and quality of manufacture. Judges included Tanya Dukes, writer; Lenore Fedow, National Jeweler; JA’s Gizzi; Helena Krodel, David Alan Jewelry; Adrianne Sanogo, Black in Jewelry Coalition; and Steve Velasquez, Madison Jewelers.

The awards, sponsored by Synchrony and Aurora Payments, are open to employees of JA member companies. All winners will receive a customized trophy.

The 2023 CASE winners are:

Retailer: jewelry up to $2,000
Wright’s Jewelry
Designed by Jennifer Beatty
Fallston, N.C.
14k white gold “Lotta Love” ring ($2,000) with 1.18 cts. t.w. marquise diamonds (one 0.47 ct., seven 0.4 ct., a 0.19 ct., and four 0.12 ct.), created from three separate rings from special men in the jeweler’s life

Retailer: $2,001 to $5,000
Avianti Jewelry Designs
Designed by Ani Babayan and Avi Babayan
La Cañada, Calif.
14k yellow gold necklace ($4,980) on a paper-clip Italian chain with a 78.67 ct. boulder opal with green-blue and black hues and 42 round natural pavé diamonds

Retailer: $5,001 to $10,000
Schullin
Designed by Marianne Köle and Laura Thomann
Graz, Austria
Ring in 18k rose gold ($5,580) with 11.09 ct. teardrop-cut citrine and 62 brilliant-cut diamonds of 0.36 ct.

Retailer: $10,001 to $50,000
Schullin
Designed by Hans Schullin and Laura Thomann
Graz, Austria
18k rose gold “Smile” necklace ($21,900) with 144 brilliant-cut diamonds of 3.06 ct. that are pavé-set in every other arch. In the center, the necklace features a diamond-set 18k white gold smile and 12 orange sapphires of 1.8 ct.

Retailer: Best in Show
Giraux Fine Jewelry
Designed by Sarkis Sarkissian
San Francisco
Platinum ring ($40,000) containing a heat-treated 9.05 ct. octagonal step-cut natural sapphire, prong-set with two antique-cut 1.1 ct. marquise diamonds and two 0.17 ct. round brilliant-cut diamonds

Supplier: up to $2,000
Jorge Valdes Fine Jewelry
Designed by Jorge Valdes
Astoria, N.Y.
18k rose gold Sparks studs ($1,495) with 0.14 ct. round white diamonds

Supplier: $2,001 to $5,000
Martha Seely Design
Designed by Martha Seely
Carlisle, Mass.
Stardust dangle earrings in 14k white gold ($4,775) with 5.8 ct. tanzanite, 3.2 ct. sapphires, and 1.35 ct. diamonds

Supplier: $5,001 to $10,000
Tabayer
Designed by Tabayer
Miami
Handcrafted 18k Fairmined rose gold Oera ring ($6,400) with 1.32 ct. brown diamond

Supplier: $10,001 to $50,000
Renisis
Designed by Sardwell
New York City
18k yellow gold Guardian Gold Temple pendant ($38,000) with a central golden South Sea Pearl framed with diamond patterns, and a strand of golden ombré 9–11 mm South Sea pearls with 18k clasp with Akoya pearls and diamond pavé. The back has shibori-inspired cut-out designs in platinum and is framed with a cherry blossom motif.

Supplier: Best in Show
Katherine Jetter Ltd.
Designed by Katherine Jetter
Nantucket, Mass.
Unicorn ring ($39,300) featuring 11.77 ct. square emerald-cut tanzanite, 1.15 ct. tapered baguette diamonds, and 2.01 ct. ombré blue sapphire set in 18k yellow gold and blue rhodium finish

Top: Avianti Jewelry Designs’ opal and diamond pendant by Ani and Avi Babayan of La Cañada, Calif., won the 2023 CASE Award in the retailer $2,001–$5,000 category. (Photos courtesy of Jewelers of America)

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In her new role, Campagna will lead and manage the grading lab’s operations and strategic growth.

Campagna has 25 years’ experience in the luxury goods and jewelry industry. She was most recently director of operations at Sarine Technologies.

Prior to that, Campagna spent over seven years as vice president and global production manager at Sotheby’s Diamonds. She has also worked as a senior gemologist at Cora International and a gemology instructor at the Fashion Institute of Technology. She holds a Graduate Gemologist degree from GIA.

IGI was purchased by a division of Blackstone Group for $569.5 million in May.

(Photo courtesy of IGI)

How the recession doomers got the U.S. economy so wrong

The ultra-wealthy have never been richer and they’re spending like crazy

– Pam Danziger: Luxury customers putting purchases “on hold”

Retail rents rise in second quarter

Walmart adds advertising in store aisles

Kering-Valentino deal helps reignite luxury M&A market

Diamond prices plummet in “difficult market”

– De Beers faces “next quartz crisis” (subscription)

Botswana plans new sales channel

– Next for De Beers: a Namibia deal

Insurance companies think lab-grown diamonds are a “risk headache”

No pay disparity between lab-grown and natural diamond polishers

Angry letters show tensions between Indian bourses

555 ct. black diamond bought with misappropriated funds, says SEC

Over $10 million in jewels stolen from Paris Piaget

How a GPS-enabled Rolex led to the capture of a robbery crew

The great Rolex recession is here

– Discontinued Daytonas helping Rolex prices

– Second-hand watch prices slump to two-year low

Aurate partnering with Helzberg on collection

John Hardy appoints new president and CEO

– Reed Krakoff’s first John Hardy collection is here

IGI names new director of operations and business development

Lagos promotes Amanda Willinger to chief revenue officer

Brosway Italia hires two U.S. VPs

Macy’s supply chain officer steps down

Interview with new Smithsonian gems curator

– NPR interviews retiring curator Jeffrey Post (as does JCK)

How green is your watchmaker?

Hermès has $1 billion in watch sales in its sights

“How culture drives the Swiss watch industry” (subscription)

Tiffany lands on NRF’s list of fastest-growing retailers

Jesper Nielsen claims Pandora owes him money (translation)

Customer flabbergasted at eco-impact of jewelry packaging

Colonial diamonds overshadow Tower of London’s most interesting objects

“Beefy brawlers” get into fight in Diamond District store

New laser slicing technique for diamond semiconductors

Anti-counterfeiting tech draws on unique qualities of micro-diamonds

Drake bought Tupac’s ring for $1.01 million

– It’s Drake’s latest auction win

Kelly Clarkson says you can throw diamonds at her (but that’s it)

Which Sex and the City engagement ring was the most expensive?

From the Podcast     

The Jewelry District, Episode 101: Guest Jeffrey Post

Have a great weekend!

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– Twitter: @robbatesjck

– Connect on LinkedIn

 (Photo: Getty Images)  

And while all of the above are actual trends this fall, it’s important to keep in mind that in the age of social media, influencer marketing, and celebrity mania, multiple—and competing—trends can exist simultaneously.

To help streamline what that means for fine jewelry retailers, we’ve highlighted fall 2023’s most salient fashion trends, and the jewels that epitomize them. Happy curating!

Stealth wealth

Unless you’ve spent the past six months on a desert island, you’re well aware of “quiet luxury,” the aesthetic concept du jour. High-quality materials meet inconspicuous styling in looks that underscore a minimalist approach to fashion, including a focus on materials designed to stand the test of time.

As JCK’s longtime fashion correspondent Venessa Lau wrote in “Fashion Files,” her fall preview in our May 2023 issue: “Designer after designer, from Brandon Maxwell and Bottega Veneta to Christian Dior and Balenciaga, put the spotlight on grown-up codes such as spare tailoring, timeless classics, and neutrals.”

Few jewelry collections embody those ideals better than Tabayer. Founded by Uzbekistan-born Nigora Tokhtabayeva, the brand takes its inspiration from talismanic amulets reinterpreted through a modernist lens. Crafted from Fairmined 18k gold, the pieces, such as the Oera hoop earrings below, boast a signature curve that’s recognizable to connoisseurs: If you know, you know.

Florals in season

The vibe for fall is all about romantic floral prints and appliqués—darker than the pastels we normally see in spring and quite a bit moodier. While the runways saw a profusion of roses, jewelers are besotted with the humble daisy, whose silhouette lends itself to artful profusions of color.

Check out this Daisy earring from U.K.-based Basak Baykal, featuring petals that have been meticulously hand-painted and studded with gems.

Racy red

Barbiecore pink gives way to a vivid crimson hue this fall, reflecting the fashion world’s collective embrace of red as the color of the season. For a perfect combo of the two shades, look no further than Gyan Jaipur’s one-of-a-kind ruby, black onyx, and pink opal ring, a deco-inspired testament to the allure of pairing sister colors.

Corporate chic

Power dressing in the form of oversize blazers and wide-leg pantsuits continues to reign supreme. What better way to complement a tailored, masculine look than with a strand of pearls, à la this hand-knotted style from L.A.-based Lizzie Mandler?

Top: Ring in 18k rose gold with ruby, black onyx, pink opal, and diamonds, $13,100; Gyan Jaipur