Blogs: All That Glitters – JCK https://www.jckonline.com The Industry Authority Mon, 07 Aug 2023 17:55:56 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.1.1 https://www.jckonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/cropped-icon-jck-512-2-32x32.png Blogs: All That Glitters – JCK https://www.jckonline.com 32 32 5 Coral Jewels We’re Craving Right Now https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/coral-jewels/ https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/coral-jewels/#respond Mon, 07 Aug 2023 16:58:02 +0000 https://www.jckonline.com/?post_type=editorial-article&p=176343 Craving coral? Us, too. In the heat of summer, we’re looking to fiery stones sourced from the sea to breathe new life into our wardrobe.

Thankfully, there are plenty of incredible coral pieces out there—from a statement-making strand of branches to earrings that incorporate just a couple of vintage polished beads on gold shells. Below, we’ve rounded up a few of our favorite coral jewels on the market right now.

By Fede necklace
Numero Tre necklace in 18k gold-plated sterling silver with Italian coral branches, $450; By Fede

Handcrafted on Nantucket, this necklace from By Fede displays coral branches handpicked in Italy. The result is a unique piece that radiates the allure of two distinctive places connected by one vast ocean.

Van Cleef ring
Van Cleef & Arpels Twist ring (circa 1960) in 18k yellow gold with coral and pearls, $3,450; Beladora

Bursting with coral beads, Van Cleef & Arpels’ domed ring also includes rows of cultured pearls, making it the perfect statement piece for any seaside summer soiree.

 

David Webb bracelet
Brocade bracelet (also pictured at top) in 18k hammered yellow gold and platinum with coral and 12.25 cts. t.w. brilliant-cut diamonds, $128,000; David Webb

Organic meets opulent through the combination of 47 coral beads and cabochon corals and 324 brilliant-cut diamonds set in 18k gold and platinum on David Webb’s bracelet.

Renato Cipullo earrings
Corallo Conchiglia earrings in 18k yellow gold with vintage polished Italian coral, $2,680; Renato Cipullo 

Feminine and flirty, Renato Cipullo’s Coral Shell (Corallo Conchiglia in Italian) earrings combine two elements of the sea. They’ll make you feel like you’re in both a different time and a different place.

Haute Victoire necklace
Vintage necklace in 18k yellow gold with natural coral and a South Sea pearl, $3,400; Haute Victoire 

A one-of-a-kind piece featuring a textured gold shell and South Sea pearl, Haute Victoire’s necklace uses a Sardinian coral branch to unite the elements. It’s a celebration of the Mediterranean at its finest.

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Bonhams’ Upcoming Sale Spotlights Some of Chanel’s Greatest Hits https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/bonhams-chanel-sale/ https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/bonhams-chanel-sale/#respond Thu, 03 Aug 2023 17:13:25 +0000 https://www.jckonline.com/?post_type=editorial-article&p=176170 Coinciding with the “Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto” exhibition opening at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A), Bonhams Knightsbridge is hosting a Sept. 11–21 sale full of Chanel tweeds, quilted bags, CC logo jewels, and more.

“The auction is ideal for those wishing to acquire their first piece of Chanel or the seasoned collector looking to add to their collection.” Meg Randell, Bonhams’ head of designer bags and fashion in the U.K., said in a statement about next month’s The Art of Luxury: Chanel sale. “We are delighted to include a selection of haute couture designs, originally created for the elite Chanel couture buyers.

“Chanel has long been known as the name behind the world’s most coveted style. Gabrielle Chanel created some of the most iconic and elegant fashion statements, from the 2.55 flap handbag to the bouclé suit, both of which have stood the test of time and continue to garner intense interest at auction,” Randell’s statement said.

Chanel jacket
Gabrielle Chanel haute couture jacket in gold-embroidered tweed on cream silk, estimate £500–£800

One standout from the sale is a one-of-a-kind piece designed by Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel herself for fall/winter 1966–1967, with its original Chanel label. The tailored jacket of gold-embroidered tweed on cream silk features a Nehru collar and gold chain woven buttons, with black stitch detail accenting the collar and cuffs as well as a cream silk lining with a gold chain hem. The jacket is expected to fetch between £500 and £800 ($632–$1,102).

Chanel earrings
Victoire de Castellane for Chanel No 5 gold-plated clip-back hoop earrings, estimate £1,200–£1,800

The original designs don’t stop there. The sale also offers jewels by Victoire de Castellane for Chanel, including a pair of oversize gold-plated earrings from spring 1987, which are expected to go for anywhere between £1,200 and £1,800 ($1,518–$2,277). In addition to jewels and ready-to-wear, Bonhams’ sale includes plenty of Chanel’s signature handbag designs—of course!

Chanel cuff
Chanel CC logo cuff bracelet in black resin with crystal, estimate £250–£350 ($316–$442)

The V&A Chanel exhibit opens Sept. 16.

Top: Chanel jumbo double flap bag (circa 2003) in black lambskin with silver hardware, estimate £4,000-£6,000 ($5,062–$7,593)

Images courtesy of Bonhams

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Omega Kicks Off Countdown to Paris 2024 Olympics With New Watch https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/omega-paris-2024-olympics-watch/ https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/omega-paris-2024-olympics-watch/#respond Mon, 31 Jul 2023 16:17:28 +0000 https://www.jckonline.com/?post_type=editorial-article&p=175944 The 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris open next July 26, just under a year away, and Omega has started the countdown with the release of a special-edition timepiece. The Seamaster Diver 300M “Paris 2024” is a tribute to the XXXIII Olympiad, and also a celebration of the 31st time Omega serves as official timekeeper of the Games, a post the Swiss watchmaker has held since 1932.

When it comes to the watch’s nuances, Omega is, naturally, going for gold. The piece features a laser-structured diver’s bezel in positive relief crafted from the brand’s own yellow gold alloy, 18k Moonshine Gold—which radiates a more subtle shade of gold—with a single speck of phosphorescent lume at 12 o’clock.

 

Omega watch
Omega has been the official timekeeper of the Olympics since the 1932 Games.

But the face of the watch isn’t the only thing to see here. The back of its stainless steel case features Omega’s proprietary gold in an inlaid medallion bearing the Paris 2024 emblem—and standing out even more in contrast to the laser-ablated background. “Paris 2024″ and the instantly recognizable Olympic rings are etched and polished in stainless steel against that frosted background.

The rest of the watch’s specifications fall in line with what’s expected of a Diver 300M, from Omega’s Seamaster line. It has a 42 mm case and is 13.7 mm thick, and it’s fastened on a stainless steel bracelet featuring the watchmaker’s new Quick Change System—the bracelet can be swapped for a red, white, or blue rubber strap or even a dedicated Paris 2024 woven NATO strap, offered in five different colors.

Currently available only at Omega’s boutique in the 2024 Olympics’ host city, the special-edition watch—although not limited or numbered—is priced at $8,700 (compared with $5,900 for the standard Seamaster 300 in stainless steel).

Top: Seamaster Diver 300M “Paris 2024” special-edition watch in stainless steel and 18k Moonshine™ Gold, $8,700; Omega (photos courtesy of Omega)

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Sweet, Summery Collaboration Ideas for Jewelers https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/sweet-summery-collaborations/ https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/sweet-summery-collaborations/#respond Thu, 27 Jul 2023 16:19:40 +0000 https://www.jckonline.com/?post_type=editorial-article&p=175778 It’s high summer. You’re melting away. And so are those little-town blues—if you’re willing to channel some big-city energy into your marketing strategy. Because the splashiest summer marketing initiatives currently on my radar are easily tailored to a small-town jeweler’s capabilities.

Granted, the marketing budgets that allowed for these moments probably weren’t tiny; even so, the approaches are robust in sophisticated thinking, high-production aesthetics, and ingenuity—and that costs you nothing. Read on for my recap of the summer’s best collaborations, and consider how you might make them work for you.

MEJURI x VAN LEEUWEN

In June, press and influencers gathered at the Van Leeuwen ice cream shop in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, where they enjoyed a little sparkle alongside their scoops, courtesy of Mejuri. To celebrate the drop of new styles within its best-selling Charlotte Collection—a new, slimmer Charlotte ring silhouette and hoop charms, all in pastel, gelato-inspired hues of enamel—the brand staged a weekend-long pop-up shop done in colors that align with the new Charlotte pieces: pistachio, sweet cream, lavender, and cappuccino. Van Leeuwen served up complimentary ice cream in special custom flavors for the celebration (looks like our lady up at the top is enjoying a scoop of Pistachio Picnic—yum!).

Mejuri x Van Leeuwen event collage
Mejuri’s colorful new take on its popular Charlotte collection was on display and available for try-on at Van Leeuwen alongside key Mejuri pieces, pretty people, and scratch-made ice cream.  The pop-up was a hit on Instagram and beyond. 

STEPHANIE GOTTLIEB x MAGNUM

This month, collaboration queen Stephanie Gottlieb got together with Magnum Ice Cream (known for its decadent bars layered with premium chocolate—available at most grocery stores) to reveal her new More Is More collection.

“The More Is More collection is an outstanding example of maximalism, creativity, and craft that can be customized to an array of styles,”  Stephanie Gottlieb said in a statement. “Each piece is a subtle nod to Magnum ice cream’s iconic bars and will be sure to amp up any look this summer and beyond.”

How does an ice cream inspiration manifest in a jewelry design? The result is pretty…tasteful: six limited-edition jewelry pieces expressed in 14k gold with various combinations of chocolate and vanilla enamel, and caramel and white diamonds.

Stephanie Gottlieb x Magnum ice cream
The More Is More collection brings to life the notion that more indulgence can often lead to more happiness in everything from ice cream to fashion. Prices from $495 (for a gold and enamel charm) to $7,560 (for a diamond-accented flip ring), Stephanie Gottlieb

SYDNEY EVAN x THE SURF LODGE

Jewelry collabs centered on ice cream are pretty sweet. One more idea to try: collaborating with a local hotel. It’s a concept that worked well for jewelry brand Sydney Evan, which created a capsule collection with the Surf Lodge in honor of the Hamptons hot spot’s 15th anniversary.

Sydney Evan x Surf Lodge
Designs in the Sydney Evan/Surf Lodge collab include two diamond necklaces that fittingly say “surf” and “Montauk,” as well as a diamond surfboard charm and a diamond “surf” charm that comes on a 14k gold or opal beaded bracelet.

The collection is inspired by the surf, sun, and laid-back vibes of the Surf Lodge’s location in Montauk, at the east end of New York’s Long Island: “Coming to the Surf Lodge is all about having fun and creating memories,” Jayma Cardoso, the hotel’s founder and creative director, said in a statement. “I loved the idea of designing a meaningful memento to share with our guests.”

Sydney Evan founder and designer Roseanne Karmas tells JCK, “Our collaboration with the Surf Lodge has performed extremely well, and I think it has a lot to do with the emotional aspect tied to the pieces. The jewelry serves as a  a reminder of special moments they had in Montauk and at the property.”

The two brands found each other because they share a publicist. In your neck of the woods, give it a think: Who do you know who could connect you to a local purveyor of sweet treats or everyone’s favorite place for a night out on the town? Start forging those relationships now so that you can leverage them next summer, and if you hurry, maybe even for the upcoming holiday season.

Top: Jewelry brand Mejuri recently used its big-city marketing chops to stage a pop-up at a Brooklyn ice cream shop, but the concept is applicable to any milieu. (Mejuri photos: Zev Starr-Tambor)

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This 19th-Century Royal Brooch Can Be Yours for $2.65M https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/british-royal-brooch-ms-rau/ https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/british-royal-brooch-ms-rau/#respond Thu, 20 Jul 2023 17:50:17 +0000 https://www.jckonline.com/?post_type=editorial-article&p=175392 A diamond brooch created in the early 19th century by the crown jewelers to the French court and worn to Queen Victoria’s wedding is the latest unique historical offering from New Orleans–based antique jeweler M.S. Rau.

“Old mine–cut diamonds were not only extremely rare in their day, but they’re almost never seen on the market today,” the owner of M.S. Rau, Bill Rau, tells JCK. “Crafted circa 1835 by the famous French jeweler Bapst, this brooch is a perfect mix of beauty and provenance. We were able to secure this stunning piece from a private source. It is well-documented, with royalty over generations wearing the brooch, which adds to the allure.”

The British Royal Diamond Bow Brooch, which M.S. Rau has priced at $2.65 million, features a total of 200 carats of diamonds. It was created by Maison Bapst, crown jewelers to the French court for decades, at the request of the fifth Duke of Newcastle, Henry Pelham-Clinton, for his wife, Lady Susan Hamilton, who wore it to the 1840 royal wedding of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. Passed down through generations, the brooch was also worn by the Duchess of Newcastle, Kathleen Florence May Pelham-Clinton (a well-known socialite, dog breeder, and conformation judge), to the Devonshire Ball in 1897.

 

MS Rau brooch box
The diamond bow brooch by Maison Bapst comes in its original fitted case.

“Every recent red-carpet event has featured star-studded celebrities sporting antique brooches—one-of-a-kind statement pieces that are rising in popularity,” Rau says.  “While a stomacher [worn in the chest area] may not be commonplace today, these monumental accessories have been popular among royals for centuries. They were famously worn by Queen Mary, Queen Charlotte, Queen Emma of the Netherlands, and Queen Josephine of Leuchtenberg, to name a few.”

Other recent extraordinary acquisitions of M.S. Rau have included a convertible necklace/tiara Napoleon gave his mistress, a $2.5 million Du Pont family ring, and a World War II–era patriotic brooch by Cartier. “We are always thrilled at M.S. Rau when we can offer up truly unique pieces, and this is no exception,” Rau says of the diamond bow brooch.

Top: British Royal Diamond Bow Brooch by Bapst (circa 1835–1840) in gold over silver with 200+ cts. t.w. old mine–cut diamonds, $2.65 million; M.S. Rau

(Photos courtesy of M.S. Rau)

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A Closer Look at the Rare Rolex Worn by 2023 Wimbledon Champ Carlos Alcaraz https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/carlos-alcaraz-wimbledon-rolex/ https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/carlos-alcaraz-wimbledon-rolex/#respond Tue, 18 Jul 2023 16:27:31 +0000 https://www.jckonline.com/?post_type=editorial-article&p=175290 In the world of tennis, there’s one name on everyone’s mind at the moment: Carlos Alcaraz. The 20-year-old Spanish sensation defeated seven-time Wimbledon champion Novak Djokovic after nearly five hours on the court during the men’s singles final at Wimbledon on Sunday. But it wasn’t just Alcaraz’s powerful strokes and strategic plays that caught viewers’ attention. The rare Rolex Cosmograph Daytona he donned while claiming his championship trophy was not to be missed—and undeniably more than a sartorial statement.

Alcaraz with trophy and Rolex
Rolex testimonee and 2023 Wimbledon champion Carlos Alcaraz receives the trophy wearing his Rolex Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona. (Photo courtesy of Rolex)

Like Wimbledon, the oldest and most prestigious tennis tournament where players from around the world gather each year, Rolex is known for its tradition and grandeur. With a distinct meteorite dial (Gibeon, to be exact) that came from an asteroid or planet older than Earth, Alcaraz’s timepiece nods to the legacy that preceded him on Wimbledon’s courts, and in the sport of tennis as a whole.

Rolex Daytona watch
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona watch in 18k yellow gold with black Cerachrom bezel on an Oysterflex bracelet, $30,600

Meteorite dials were discontinued from Rolex’s Daytona portfolio earlier this year, making the tennis player’s watch even rarer. But Rolex currently has a similar Rolex Cosmograph Daytona model in 18k yellow gold with the same bezel and Oysterflex bracelet available for those looking to sport the style (for $30,600).

As for Alcaraz, this likely won’t be the last time we see him wearing a Rolex—or claiming a championship trophy, for that matter. He became a Rolex brand ambassador at just 18 years old and wore another Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (Ref. 116500LN) to accept his first Grand Slam title, at the U.S. Open, in 2022. Hey, it might just be his good luck charm.

Top: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (Ref. 116519LN) in 18k yellow gold with black Cerachrom bezel and meteorite dial on an Oysterflex bracelet

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6 Juicy Jewels for a Midsummer Refresh https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/fruit-jewels-for-summer/ https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/fruit-jewels-for-summer/#respond Mon, 17 Jul 2023 17:15:46 +0000 https://www.jckonline.com/?post_type=editorial-article&p=175228 It’s officially the height of summer, and with temperatures up, we’re craving cool respite—through activities (like a dip in the ocean), food and beverage, and fashion (extending beyond our clothing). Below are a few fruit-inspired jewels to satiate that midsummer thirst, from tangy lemons that look straight out of coastal Italy to refreshing watermelon dripping with black seeds to a whole salad’s worth of fruit on one chain.

These juicy jewels are playful, wearable art pieces crafted with meticulous attention to detail that captures the essence of each fruit—its shape, texture, and color. Not only do these fruity gems add a pop of color to any ensemble, they’re also a great way to revive your summer wardrobe with just a tiny addition. Alternatively, the necklaces can serve as statement styles through layering and stacking. And these miniature fruit treasures are sure to spark conversations and evoke sentiments of sun-kissed orchards.

Brent Neale
Large watermelon pendant in 18k yellow gold with hand-carved rhodochrosite, Brazilian opal, and black diamonds, $28,000; Brent Neale
Jenna Blake
Cherry tree charm in 18k yellow gold with rubies and diamonds, $5,800; Jenna Blake
Sorellina
Limoncello earrings in 18k yellow gold with 62 cts. t.w. yellow opal, 12.41 cts. t.w. malachite, and 1.09 cts. t.w. diamonds, $12,500; Sorellina
Storrow
Fruit Salad multi-charm necklace (also pictured at top) in 14k yellow gold with chrismatite, emerald, amethyst, rhodochrosite, and yellow sapphire, $20,995; Storrow
Gwen Barba
Orange Blossom pendant in 18k yellow gold with enamel, $850; Gwen Barba
Pamela Love
Ruby Hera pomegranate pendant in hand-carved 18k yellow gold with rubies, $2,900; Pamela Love

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European Vacation: Inside Van Cleef & Arpels’ Le Grand Tour https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/vca-high-jewelry-le-grand-tour/ https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/vca-high-jewelry-le-grand-tour/#respond Thu, 13 Jul 2023 16:52:25 +0000 https://www.jckonline.com/?post_type=editorial-article&p=175072 A highlight of Haute Couture Week, which took place earlier this month in Paris, was Van Cleef & Arpels‘ unveiling of its latest high jewelry collection. Titled Le Grand Tour, it encompasses 70 pieces, all inspired by a tradition in 17th- to 19th-century Western culture that saw young aristocrats taking lavish trips through Europe to experience its cultural wonders.

“The collection celebrates a tradition that has always fascinated us,” VCA president and CEO Nicolas Bos commented in notes on Le Grand Tour. “The collection blends the traditions of jewelry and decorative arts—such objects were brought back as souvenirs from the grand tour—with the idea of once again discovering and mixing periods and cultures. For that, we followed the trail of our predecessors and chose cities that were renowned stops historically. We took inspiration from antique jewelry, marrying it with our own heritage, style, and craftsmanship. The result is like a colorful sketchbook that invites to dive into destinations and gemstones.”

Stops on this glittering journey include London, Paris, the Swiss Alps, and Baden Baden (in the heart of southwestern Germany), but the most action-packed chapter unfolds in Italy. Read on for a “travelogue” of the treasures located therein.

A quartet of flexible bandeaux bracelets typical of Van Cleef & Arpels’ work in the 1920s provides a kind of amuse-bouche to the multicourse Italian feast to come: There is one bracelet each for Venice, Florence, Rome, and Naples, the destinations highlighted in this portion of Le Grand Tour.

Sculpted gold motifs depicting well-known Italian landmarks glint from gem-set backgrounds that evoke a bejeweled panorama of colorful micromosaic tesserae. You can make out the architectural features of the Colosseum in the example shown below.

 

VCA Escale antique bracelet
Escale Antique bracelet in rose gold with emeralds, tsavorite garnets, and diamonds, price on request

VENICE

The city’s glorious canals and picturesque gondolas are expressed in the magnificent necklace below (just in case you needed further proof that turquoise can be unbelievably luxe). This choker style is fringed with 16 articulated turquoise pendants topped by pavé diamond arches, a nod to Venice’s bridges. Deep blue sapphires add contrast, and the back of the necklace is finished with the most decadent surprise: neat rows of gradated blue sapphires.

VCA Chant des gondoliers necklace
Chant des Gondoliers necklace in white and yellow gold with sapphires, turquoise, and diamonds, price on request

Beyond the Venetian landscape’s distinctive features, other inspirations inform this group. For example, the Carriera earrings are an homage to the Venetian painter Rosalba Carriera (1675—1757), a member of the Rococo movement, whose work, according to the collection notes, is said to have influenced a penchant for pastels among the courtiers of 18th-century France. Hence the earring’s various shades of pink; the inclusion of pearls alludes to the jewelry styles that were in vogue during the Rococo era in France and in Italy.

VCA Carriera transformable earrings
Carriera earrings with detachable pendants in rose and white gold with pink sapphires, spessartite garnets, white cultured pearls, and diamonds, price on request

FLORENCE

Magical Firenze, forever steeped in Old World charm and romance and Renaissance history… The jewels from this stop on the tour lean heavily on stones in painterly colors that also evoke passion and desire, taking a cue from the city’s magnificent artisan traditions. Van Cleef & Arpels fittingly offers an homage to the Florentine painter Sandro Botticelli and his famous 1485 masterpiece The Birth of Venus with a ring that centers an oval-cut pink sapphire in the hollow of a rose gold shell. The spiraling gems and metalwork of the Ode à l’Amour ring capture the essence of the painting’s iconic sea-themed details and the tendrils of Venus’ water-swept hair.

VCA Ode a lamour ring
Ode à l’Amour ring in rose and white gold with 4 ct. oval pink sapphire and accents of rubies, pink sapphires, and diamonds, price on request

An original take on Florentine aesthetics: the Villanova necklace, inspired by Etruscan-style jewelry, with its generous ensemble of rubellites and diamonds descending from a rose gold choker woven in a chevron pattern. Each rubellite element is detachable in case the moment calls simply for the richness of gold and diamonds. And that clasp!

 

VCA Villanova transformable necklace
Villanova necklace in white and rose gold with cabochon-cut rubellites and diamonds, price on request

ROME

Van Cleef & Arpels artisans were endlessly inspired by the Eternal City’s architectural and historical marvels, from St. Peter’s Square to Villa Borghese. The Piazza Divina necklace borrows the former’s geometric layout, first designed by Bernini in the 17th century, with its elliptical motifs—including the 13.08 ct. oval-cut emerald that is the centerpiece of the detachable medallion.

VCA Piazza Divina transformable necklace
 Piazza Divina necklace in white, rose, and yellow gold with oval-cut emerald and accents of diamonds, emeralds, and sapphires, price on request

A celebration of Roman antiquity, the Anfora clip reveals a red jasper intaglio dating to the 2nd century A.D. It sits at the heart of a composition inspired by the ancient art of goldsmithing and punctuated with a lapis lazuli cabochon, a splash of diamonds, and an oval spessartite garnet that bathes the jewel with a warm, sun-like glow.

VCA Anfora clip
Anfora clip in yellow gold and rose gold with carved red jasper motif, oval-cut spessartite garnet, lapis lazuli, and diamonds, price on request

Finally, the Diana transformable necklace is a reference to the temple of Diana in the gardens of Villa Borghese. Its distinctive columns and cupola surface at the base of the necklace’s ornate central medallion, enclosing a sapphire, and crowning a tassel of pearls and emerald beads. The tassel is detachable so the necklace can be worn a number of ways; the jewel also breaks down to form two matching bracelets, and the sapphire medallion doubles as a brooch.

VCA Diana transformable long necklace
Diana transformable long necklace in white gold and rose gold with 8.55 ct. cushion-cut sapphire and accents of sapphires, emeralds, diamonds, and cultured pearls, price on request

NAPLES

Van Cleef & Arpels’ last stop in Italy includes a necklace inspired by the city’s famed Church of Gesù Nuovo; the other pieces in this group are rooted in locales that are often included as “day trips” on itineraries covering Napoli and its environs.

The Ninfe necklace summons the mosaics of the ruined Nymphaeum, a monument that was built in the ancient enclave of Herculaneum on the Bay of Naples (like Pompeii, Herculaneum was decimated by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 70 A.D.). The necklace takes its form from a lavish floral crown worn by one of the nymphs in the mosaics.

VCA Ninfe necklace
Ninfe necklace in rose gold and white gold with rubellites, pink sapphires, rubies, spessartite garnets, coral, and diamonds, price on request

Floral and foliate motifs—a Van Cleef & Arpels signature since its inception—also show up in three brooches in the Naples group, including the Symphonie Végétale. They’re inspired by terraces and gardens found in the villas of Ravello on the Amalfi coast.

VCA Symphonie vegetale clip
Symphonie Végétale clip in white gold and rose gold with pink tourmaline, colored sapphires, and diamonds, price on request

Who wouldn’t want to linger in these blooming paradises, real or bejeweled?

Top: Postcard from “Naples” via Van Cleef & Arpels: Symphonie de l’eau clip in white gold and rose gold with black opal cabochon, sapphires, tsavorite garnets, green tourmalines, and diamonds.  

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8 Highlights From Bonhams’ California Jewels July Sale https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/bonhams-california-jewels-july/ https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/bonhams-california-jewels-july/#respond Mon, 10 Jul 2023 16:09:15 +0000 https://www.jckonline.com/?post_type=editorial-article&p=174827 International auction house Bonhams is hosting the latest iteration of its California Jewels sale on July 18, at Bonhams’ Los Angeles outpost. Comprising over 320 lots, the auction will include both contemporary and vintage jewels, many of them signed pieces from prominent private estates.

“We are honored to offer important jewels in our forthcoming California Jewels auction, especially those from curated private collections featuring impressive diamonds and gold statement pieces,” said the director of Bonhams’ jewelry department, Emily Waterfall, in a statement. “The lots offered highlight craftsmanship from leading names in jewelry that will entice jewelry aficionados and collectors everywhere.” Among these names are legacy jewelers such as Cartier, Tiffany & Co. (including a few Schlumberger designs), David Webb, Mario Buccellati, Piaget, and more.

Below is a look at eight pieces in the auction, several of which are from the art deco period (including a 1925 carved agate desk clock by Cartier) and have the same appeal today as they did then.

Tiffany necklace
Schlumberger for Tiffany bow tie necklace in 18k yellow gold, estimate $8,000–$12,000
Art deco bracelet
Art deco bracelet in platinum with 32 cts. t.w. oval and pear-shape sapphires and 9.5 cts. t.w. round, baguette-, and marquise-shape diamonds, estimate $20,000-$30,000
Cartier ring
Cartier ring in platinum with a 3.89 ct. cut-cornered rectangular step-cut diamond, estimate $40,000–$80,000
David Webb brooch
David Webb Frog brooch in 18k yellow gold and platinum with oval ruby cabochon eyes, round diamonds, and enamel, estimate $9,000–$12,000
Tiffany bracelet
Tiffany & Co. X bracelet in 18k yellow gold with 1.5 cts. t.w. diamonds, estimate $2,200–$3,200
Cartier clock
Cartier desk clock (circa 1925) with carved banded agate body, black enamel and mother-of-pearl face, and carved onyx and coral studs, estimate $8,000–$12,000
Buccellati bracelet
Mario Buccellati bracelet (also pictured at top) in 18k bicolor gold with 4.5 cts. t.w. oval sapphire cabochons, rose-cut diamonds, 1.6 cts. t.w. rose-cut diamonds, estimate $15,000–$20,000
Piaget watch
Piaget manual wind wristwatch (circa 1970) in 18k gold with lapis lazuli and nephrite, estimate $10,000–$15,000

(Photos courtesy of Bonhams)

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Hancocks London Gets Behind Buccellati for Its Jewel of the Month https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/hancocks-londons-buccellati-cuff/ https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/hancocks-londons-buccellati-cuff/#respond Thu, 06 Jul 2023 16:58:18 +0000 https://www.jckonline.com/?post_type=editorial-article&p=174643 With the popularity of television shows like The White Lotus and Stanley Tucci’s culinary documentary Searching for Italy, all eyes have been turning (once again) to Italy, a country that has proved it knows a thing or two about luxury. Among the venerable Italian jewelers, Milan-based Buccellati has been around since 1919 yet seems as relevant now as it’s ever been, particularly through its vintage pieces.

Hancocks London is embracing Italian culture and honoring Buccellati this month by highlighting a beautiful and distinct bracelet design by Mario Buccellati, circa 1960.

Buccellati cuff in box
Buccellati cuff in 18k yellow and white gold, approximately $28,586 (£22,500); Hancocks London

The two-tone, oversize gold cuff is undeniably a statement piece of jewelry. Making it even more distinguished and interesting is the intricate engraving across its entire surface, which could easily be overlooked at first glance. A signature of the house, rigato engraving entails numerous shallow parallel lines that create the effect of a sumptuous, soft silk. Guy Burton, managing director of Hancocks London, emphasizes how “this cuff is a very unusual design, and it has a cool, contemporary vibe despite being around 60 years old.

“There is a simplicity to it that belies the incredible skill it takes to work gold in this way,” Burton’s statement continued. “This is a design that we’ve never seen before, so we were delighted to discover it and be able to offer it for sale, complete with its original dark blue leather and velvet box.”

The 18k yellow gold and white gold bracelet also showcases a type of etching called ornato where two fine metals overlap, meant to replicate the patterns of Renaissance brocades and damasks. Like many things Italian, and like much of Mario Buccellati’s work, this piece leaves no area untouched—everything that’s done is done with care.

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