Thankfully, there are plenty of incredible coral pieces out there—from a statement-making strand of branches to earrings that incorporate just a couple of vintage polished beads on gold shells. Below, we’ve rounded up a few of our favorite coral jewels on the market right now.

Handcrafted on Nantucket, this necklace from By Fede displays coral branches handpicked in Italy. The result is a unique piece that radiates the allure of two distinctive places connected by one vast ocean.

Bursting with coral beads, Van Cleef & Arpels’ domed ring also includes rows of cultured pearls, making it the perfect statement piece for any seaside summer soiree.

Organic meets opulent through the combination of 47 coral beads and cabochon corals and 324 brilliant-cut diamonds set in 18k gold and platinum on David Webb’s bracelet.

Feminine and flirty, Renato Cipullo’s Coral Shell (Corallo Conchiglia in Italian) earrings combine two elements of the sea. They’ll make you feel like you’re in both a different time and a different place.

A one-of-a-kind piece featuring a textured gold shell and South Sea pearl, Haute Victoire’s necklace uses a Sardinian coral branch to unite the elements. It’s a celebration of the Mediterranean at its finest.

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And while all of the above are actual trends this fall, it’s important to keep in mind that in the age of social media, influencer marketing, and celebrity mania, multiple—and competing—trends can exist simultaneously.

To help streamline what that means for fine jewelry retailers, we’ve highlighted fall 2023’s most salient fashion trends, and the jewels that epitomize them. Happy curating!

Stealth wealth

Unless you’ve spent the past six months on a desert island, you’re well aware of “quiet luxury,” the aesthetic concept du jour. High-quality materials meet inconspicuous styling in looks that underscore a minimalist approach to fashion, including a focus on materials designed to stand the test of time.

As JCK’s longtime fashion correspondent Venessa Lau wrote in “Fashion Files,” her fall preview in our May 2023 issue: “Designer after designer, from Brandon Maxwell and Bottega Veneta to Christian Dior and Balenciaga, put the spotlight on grown-up codes such as spare tailoring, timeless classics, and neutrals.”

Few jewelry collections embody those ideals better than Tabayer. Founded by Uzbekistan-born Nigora Tokhtabayeva, the brand takes its inspiration from talismanic amulets reinterpreted through a modernist lens. Crafted from Fairmined 18k gold, the pieces, such as the Oera hoop earrings below, boast a signature curve that’s recognizable to connoisseurs: If you know, you know.

Florals in season

The vibe for fall is all about romantic floral prints and appliqués—darker than the pastels we normally see in spring and quite a bit moodier. While the runways saw a profusion of roses, jewelers are besotted with the humble daisy, whose silhouette lends itself to artful profusions of color.

Check out this Daisy earring from U.K.-based Basak Baykal, featuring petals that have been meticulously hand-painted and studded with gems.

Racy red

Barbiecore pink gives way to a vivid crimson hue this fall, reflecting the fashion world’s collective embrace of red as the color of the season. For a perfect combo of the two shades, look no further than Gyan Jaipur’s one-of-a-kind ruby, black onyx, and pink opal ring, a deco-inspired testament to the allure of pairing sister colors.

Corporate chic

Power dressing in the form of oversize blazers and wide-leg pantsuits continues to reign supreme. What better way to complement a tailored, masculine look than with a strand of pearls, à la this hand-knotted style from L.A.-based Lizzie Mandler?

Top: Ring in 18k rose gold with ruby, black onyx, pink opal, and diamonds, $13,100; Gyan Jaipur

Rose gold had its moment in the engagement ring category about a decade or so back, but it was quickly overtaken by the immensely popular offerings of yellow gold, especially in the form of thick flush-mount settings.

Like sterling silver, rose gold is now experiencing a spike in popularity—particularly in fine/fashion jewelry—and it’s a welcome one indeed.

Soft and lustrous, rose gold provides a beautiful departure from the chunks of yellow gold we’ve been heavily (and happily) consuming for the past several years. For those invested in yellow gold, rose gold plays nicely with it. It’s also marvelous paired with white metals, its unique shade managing a cool warmth—not too hot like yellow gold, not as icy as, say, platinum. The perfect in-between.

Below, some of the latest in rose gold.

Top: Gold Strokes ear cuff in 18k rose gold, $1,579; Susana Martins

“Many brands talk about how recycled gold is ‘green’ and how it has a lower carbon footprint,” said Sabrina Karib, founder of the Precious Metals Impact Forum (PMIF). “That runs the risk of greenwashing.

“In the consumer mind, recycled signifies ‘green’ or something that avoids extraction. Recycled gold does not reduce mining. In terms of volume, it doesn’t change anything.”

Karib said that while recycled gold has numerous definitions, a PMIF-convened multi-stakeholder group decided it should be framed more narrowly: It should apply only to products that have less than 2% gold (by weight) and are made from gold that would otherwise be discarded—such as electronics. Gold from melted jewelry that is now regularly called recycled should instead be dubbed reprocessed.

The Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC) recently asked the Federal Trade Commission to disallow use of term recycled gold for jewelry products, said panelist Tiffany Stevens, JVC’s president and CEO. “Most of our members feel the term is very confusing for the consumer,” she said, noting that under the current FTC regulations, something is considered recycled only if it’s “recovered from the waste stream.”

“No one’s throwing gold in the trash,” Stevens said. “We’re in a difficult, if not impossible, situation in our industry, which is why we need a new definition. Right now it’s impossible for us to qualify.”

Kevin Telmer, executive director of the Artisanal Gold Council, said that about 20% of the world’s gold supply is mined by artisanal or small-scale miners, but their product is currently excluded from “responsible” supply chains.

“Those people are the most vulnerable, the most needy. There’s a few bad actors that the media loves to focus on, but 99% of them are just good, hardworking people.”

There is, however, a trend toward gold brands built around responsibly sourced, artisanally mined gold, and prestigious jewelry companies like Chopard, Cartier, and Breitling are starting to use them, said Olivier Demierre, president of the Swiss Better Gold Association.

“Have they been burned, or have they experienced difficulties because of that?” he asked.  “No. Just the opposite.”

While John Mulligan, director of market relations and climate change lead for the World Gold Council, said these products can have a positive impact, he cautioned they represent a minor portion of supply. “[They] absolutely are contributing to progress, but they are doing it at the edges, at a very small scale,” he said. “Swiss Better Gold produces four tons [of artisanal/small-scale gold]. The U.S. jewelry industry uses 150 tons. The global jewelry industry uses 1,800 tons.

“One of the great challenges is how to support structural change,” said Mulligan. “For all the great work that these niche vertical supply chains do, you need to have an impact on the mainstream.”

On another gold-related topic, in light of the recent U.S. government’s recent warning that West African gold was funding Russian paramilitary outfit the Wagner Group, Stevens reminded attendees they need to set up an anti-money-laundering program, and regularly test it.

But Charlie Betts, managing director of the Betts Group, which offers “single mine origin” gold, argued brands shouldn’t disengage from problematic areas. “You get that release from the State Department, the easy answer is to avoid those regions, and we think that’s exactly the wrong thing to do. With single mine origin, we deliberately and specifically source gold from West Africa. Because that is where you can have the greatest impact.”

Betts said sourcing your gold from a single producer allows a company to better control its supply chain and engage directly with the vendor. “There are some incredibly progressive large-scale miners which go about their operations in the right way and have an unbelievable social and economic impact,” he said. ‘They can change a whole region in a way small-scale projects can’t.”

“Mining is not sustainable,” he added. “But what can be sustainable is how a region can be transformed when the mine is finished.”

The panel, held July 18 at Bohemian National Hall in New York City, was co-moderated by Initiatives in Art and Culture president Lisa Koenigsberg and the author of this article.

Top: Sabrina Karib (on screen) participates in the gold panel with (from left) Tiffany Stevens, Kevin Telmer, and JCK‘s Rob Bates. (Photo by and courtesy of Cristina Villegas)

“Consumers want this,” said panelist Sara Yood, deputy general counsel for the Jewelers Vigilance Committee. “You may not know that consumers want this, and the data may not show that consumers want it. But it’s pretty clear that consumers are asking for this information at a higher level than they were previously.

“And more important,” she said, “governments want this information too.”

Rebecca Nolan, a State Department foreign affairs officer who represents the U.S. at the Kimberley Process, noted that the G7 has twice said that it wants to ban the import of Russian polished diamonds, but is still working out the details on how to do so.

“Our partners are continuing to develop a framework,” she said. “The conversations we have had with the industry are helpful in getting a sense of how these supply chains work.”

Yood said she believed that any Russian diamond ban will have “a size floor which will be phased in over time.” She said, “The Belgian government, which has been against [sanctions on Russian diamonds] for so long, is realizing they have an opportunity to leverage Antwerp as a through destination for diamonds in a way they haven’t been able to in some time.”

While there has been talk of a method that could scientifically determine the origin of diamonds, David Block, CEO of Sarine diamond technology company, was skeptical. “Diamonds are not gemstones,” he said. “With gemstones, trace elements are useful [in determining origin]; with diamonds, the quantity of trace elements is so much less. As a result, it’s probably not possible—and if it was, it would be costly and time-consuming.”

But he added that programs to follow diamonds through the pipeline are “possible and  here today and won’t involve a huge burden on the industry”—though, for now, they will only work on newly mined goods.

Another panelist, designer Satta Maturi, said, “The diamond industry as a whole has done an incredible job creating and investing in traceability technology, especially if you compare us to other sectors, like colored stones, and probably metals, where I, as a maker, would like to see more done.”

How can jewelers determine the origin of their materials? Yood said they should use their current anti-money-laundering policy as a building block: “The know-your-customer form has a certain set of elements that are required on it. You can build on to that. You can make that a more robust vendor packet and ask further questions.

“If your vendors don’t want to answer all those questions,” she continued, “you can make a determination: Do I want to work for this business or not? I understand from a small retail perspective you feel that you have no power. But there are suppliers out there who want to give you this information. They are proud of the work they are doing for to identify their supply chains and do due diligence.”

She noted that most due diligence procedures are based on guidance from the OECD (the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development), and advised jewelers to check out its website, duediligenceguidance.org, for helpful tips.

“If you have not been there, I strongly recommend it. It has animation and directions, and it’s very usable.”

Alison Charalambous, vice president, responsible sourcing and sustainability, for Brilliant Earth, said her company carefully spells out its expectations for vendors. “You say what expectations are, what the origins you approve of, and the level of traceability you want from that vendor,” she said. “And then you test them to see if they are able to show you proof of their sourcing practices, and how they themselves trace origin.

“In that process, you can tell how sophisticated they are [about tracing their materials], if it’s something they do on a day-to-day basis, if it’s something they consider or don’t consider, if it’s something they do when you’re not watching. Oftentimes you can quite quickly eliminate them [based on that].”

All the panelists agreed that not everyone’s supply chain will become perfect overnight, but it’s important to show “continuous improvement.”

“Sometimes it’s enough to get one thing right,” said Matturi, who is a board member of the Responsible Jewellery Council. “And that can have a great impact.”

The panel, held at Bohemian National Hall in New York City, was moderated by the author of this article.

Top: Initiatives in Art and Culture’s Gold & Diamond Conference (photo by and courtesy of Cristina Villegas)

The companies are Ural Mining and Metallurgical Company (UMMC), one of Russia’s top producers of metals such as copper, zinc, gold, and silver, and two subsidiaries: UMMC Nonferrous Metals Processing Limited Liability Company, and Joint Stock Company Uralelektromed.

The three were sanctioned for “operating or having operated in the metals and mining sector of the Russian Federation economy.”

OFAC previously placed sanctions on Russian diamond miner Alrosa. A complete list of newly sanctioned companies and individuals can be seen here.

(Image courtesy of the Office of Foreign Assets Control)

The Fairfield, Ohio–based jewelry manufacturer had planned to merge with Tastemaker Acquisition Corp., a special purpose acquisition company (SPAC). But the market for SPACs has cooled considerably, which hurt Quality Gold’s chances of a successful IPO, says Quality Gold CEO Michael Langhammer (pictured).

“We went through the lengthy process of going public because we believed that the equity markets would be an attractive source for financing continued acquisition of complementary businesses,” he tells JCK via email. “Unfortunately, the post-COVID market for new offerings via IPO or SPAC merger remained very depressed.”

The now-canceled IPO aimed to raise $279 million, which implied an enterprise value for Quality Gold of $989 million.

Andy Pforzheimer, Tastemaker’s co-CEO, said in a statement: “We are disappointed that we were not able to complete the transaction with Quality Gold. We were excited about the potential for the company.”

In January, Quality Gold bought Herco, a San Francisco–based jewelry manufacturer. It paid $18.2 million for the company, according to an April 23 filing with the Securities and Exchange Commission (SEC).

The April filing said that Quality Gold has been affected by the current issues with lab-grown diamonds, which comprise 16% of its business, and that it took a $6 million write-down on its lab-grown inventories as of Dec. 31, 2022.

In the SEC form, Quality also noted that it was “currently in a dispute with a vendor who had been our primary supplier of rough lab-grown diamonds.” The company had a long-term agreement with this supplier, set to expire in 2025, but Quality Gold alleged in the SEC document that the “supplier has breached the ‘most favored nation’ clause of our contract by selling products to other customers on pricing terms that are substantially more favorable than the pricing we have been paying without offering preferred pricing to us.” This has squeezed its margins further, it said.

According to the filing, Quality sees “a market opportunity for large-carat lab-grown diamonds” and believes “there is an opportunity to replace natural small diamonds with small lab-grown diamonds.”

(Photo courtesy of Quality Gold)

Small (pictured), a London-based designer, will receive IAC’s third annual Leadership in Responsible Practice Award. Since launching her brand in 2007, Small has been committed to alleviating poverty in the areas where her jewelry is made, and serves as an ambassador for human rights group Survival International. In 2013, Queen Elizabeth awarded her an MBE (Member of the Order of the British Empire) for her ethical and charity work.

Matturi will win IAC’s sixth award for Extraordinary Contributions to the Diamond and Jewelry Industries. The founder of Matturi Fine Jewelry, the Sierra Leone–born designer recently became a board member of the Responsible Jewellery Council. She has appeared on JCK’s podcast, The Jewelry District.

The conference’s theme is “Maintaining Purpose,” and panels throughout the day will address gold sourcing, transparency, climate change, artisanal mining, and attracting a new generation to the industry. Speakers include professionals from the U.S. State Department, the World Bank, GIA, De Beers, Sarine, Brilliant Earth, and JCK. The opening-night event will be held on Monday, July 17, at Heritage Auctions.

More information can be found here.

(Photos courtesy of Initiatives in Art and Culture)

Skulls and roses, royal shields, chunky blackened silver chains, bones and vertebrae: If you’re looking for jewelry with an edge, Alp Sagnak is your go-to guy. For decades, the Turkish-born, New York City–based Sagnak (pictured, above) has been creating cheeky, character-filled designs that appeal to wearers of all genders. This year, he returned to the Design Collective at the JCK show in Las Vegas, and he had more than a few jewels up his sleeve. First, there’s his Roaring ’20s collection, in honor of art deco’s 100th anniversary. “I always loved art deco, so I made my own versions,” he says. “There are 13 pieces that are 13 spectacular women from the ’20s.” (Author Edith Wharton and blues singer Ma Rainey are just two of the women represented.) Then there’s Set in Stone—“different mottos written in diamonds.” And keep, ahem, an eye out for Evil Eye vs. Eye of the Evil, “my take on the evil eye.” If you’re a Sagnak fan, you might have guessed: His take on the universal motif involves another of his favorite themes—skulls.

Age: 47

Number of years in the biz: I started when I was in middle school—37 years.

Number of employees you oversee: 25

Family and pets: I have a 17-year-old son and a 13-year-old daughter, and according to my daughter, I am the grandfather of her dog, Star.

Describe your personal style: It is jeans and leather. I wear the ­jewelry I make.

First piece you ever designed: First thing I learned was how to cut a sheet of silver. It is very easy to make a sword when you first start, so it was that. Then when I got better, I cut a dragon. While I was looking if I did a good job, I placed it on the remaining sheet I cut it from. Then I picked up the dragon and realized the shadow of the dragon on the sheet. I loved it. Then I put a round gold wire in between the background and the dragon. That became my first-ever collection, Jeweled Ink.

The single piece of jewelry you’re most proud of: It is always the latest piece. These days I am making a candelabra with 2,500 carats black opal. That will be the piece.

Best advice you ever received: “May this be our worst day.”

Worst advice: Any advice that starts with “You know what you should do, you should…”

First job ever: Sweeping the floors, cleaning windows and display cases.

How did you get started designing jewelry? I started designing when I was studying engineering when I was 18; I started making jewelry when I was 27.

If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing? I wanted to be a basketball player when I was young. I want to be on stage now.

Favorite gemstone: At the moment, black opal.

Jewelry you’re wearing right now: I am wearing a gold vertebrae chain with diamonds, a spade-cut diamond earring, Batman ring, and some bracelets.

Five items on your desk right now: Castings, diamonds, bills, invoices, pictures of my son and daughter.

On your playlist: “If I Ain’t Got You,” Alicia Keys; “Gravity,” John Mayer; all songs by Bruno Mars and Led Zeppelin; Whitesnake unplugged

Exercise regimen: I am using an app called Muscle Booster, and I play basketball in a league called IndoorHoops.

What did you have for breakfast? Iced coffee with simple syrup.

Drink (daytime/evening): I drink whiskey three to four times a week with dinner.

First website you check every day (not your own!): Kitco.com

Scent: Pi by Givenchy

How do you unwind? I unwind on my motorcycle and spending time with people I love.

Who would play you in your life story? Tom Hardy. I think he is great at playing unique characters. Adrien Brody, Adam Driver, and Liev Schreiber as well.

Personal motto: “Embrace your shadow or it will kill you.”

Mars: Kevin Mazur/Getty Images for the Recording Academy/Getty; coffee: RyanJLane/iStock/Getty; whiskey: Gresei/iStock/Getty; Hardy: Jay Maidment/© Sony Pictures Releasing/© Marvel Entertainment/Courtesy Everett

Thistle & Bess‘ new Crest collection is based on Scottish family crests and mottos, Marsh says, but with her sense of humor and jewelry sensibilities added in to make the pieces modern. They offer wearers gentle reminders that are intended to make their lives a bit better in the moment, she says.

The Hand Holding Rose pendant, for example, is engraved on the underside with “Roses plucked give sweet smell,” the motto of the Aiton family, whose crest inspired the three-dimensional hand with rose that’s depicted on the pendant. Marsh says the phrase is meant to motivate the wearer to take action and seek out what they desire most in life.

The swan pendant, based on the Campbell of Cawdor family crest, is engraved on back with the words “Be mindful,” encouraging the wearer to slow down and be present—something busy people might need to consider.

Marsh says she frequently traveled abroad to research jewelry and purchase pieces for her Ann Arbor, Mich., store. On one trip she acquired a signet ring with an engraved cat on it. That animal imagery drew her in, but the inscription inside the ring intrigued her. It said, “Touch not a cat but a glove.”

“The engraving seemed hand-done and very simple, and the cat was just a sketch. But it was the coolest ring,” Marsh says. “I posted a picture of it on Instagram in a story.”

One of Marsh’s regular customers reached out after viewing the post and purchased the ring from her. Marsh says she is always sentimental about jewelry that “got away” from her too early and often thought about the ring. So when she started thinking of a new Thistle & Bess collection, this piece came to mind.

Marsh researched the cat crest and its motto and learned it came from the McPherson family—it was meant as a kind of warning to others not to mess with them, she says. She discovered other crests in her online sleuthing, did some mixing and matching based on her own preferences, and the Crest collection was born.

“We picked the ones that I found inspiring,” Marsh says. “I liked the idea of a signet ring or family crest because it is something that’s passed down or a sign of status. Instead, our crests flip that on its head, allowing someone to choose a piece based on its message or its image and how it connects to them. It takes the status out of it.… Now it’s a lovely daily reminder on a piece of jewelry that makes you feel good whenever you put it on.”

The Crest collection features pendants and signet rings, all done in 14k gold. Prices are $375 for the pendants and $1,200 for the rings. Thistle & Bess‘ jewelry line also includes the Diana ring, pansy necklace in Marsh’s floral mini collection, and Bess opal earrings.

Top: Thistle & Bess’ new Crest collection of pendants and rings is based on historical Scottish family crests, adapted with owner Diana Marsh’s modern influence. (Photos courtesy of Thistle & Bess)

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